Project Checklists
Home Project Checklists
Step-by-step checklists for every home project — so you know exactly what to expect before, during, and after the work.
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- 1 Set your budget (include 15-20% contingency)
- 2 Measure your bathroom and create a rough floor plan
- 3 Decide: cosmetic refresh or full structural renovation?
- 4 Choose your style — collect inspiration photos
- 5 Select tiles, vanity, toilet, shower, bath, tapware
- 6 Book a waterproofing professional (must be licensed)
- 7 Arrange skip bin for demolition waste
- 8 Book plumber for rough-in (before waterproofing)
- 9 Book electrician for lighting, exhaust fan, heated towel rail
- 10 Order fixtures early — allow 4-6 weeks lead time
- 11 Schedule tiler after waterproofing is complete
- 12 Install vanity, mirror, accessories after tiling
- 13 Final plumbing fit-off and electrical trim
- 14 Apply silicone sealant to all wet area joints
- 15 Final clean and inspection
- 1 Secure financing and get pre-approval
- 2 Choose and purchase land (check zoning, orientation, services)
- 3 Select builder — check reviews, past projects, licence
- 4 Review and sign building contract (get legal advice)
- 5 Finalise house design and floor plan
- 6 Select all finishes: bricks, roof, windows, doors
- 7 Choose flooring throughout (timber, tile, carpet)
- 8 Select kitchen and bathroom fixtures and finishes
- 9 Choose paint colours (interior and exterior)
- 10 Electrical plan: outlets, lights, data points, security
- 11 Submit plans to council for approval (allow 4-8 weeks)
- 12 Construction begins: slab, frame, roof, lock-up
- 13 Rough-in: plumbing, electrical, data, aircon
- 14 Insulation and plasterboard installation
- 15 Internal fit-out: architraves, skirting, doors
- 16 Kitchen and bathroom installation
- 17 Painting and final finishes
- 18 Flooring installation
- 19 Final fit-off: electrical, plumbing, appliances
- 20 Practical completion inspection (PCI)
- 21 Handover and keys!
- 1 Get at least 3 quotes — never go with the first one
- 2 Check the tradie's ABN is active and valid
- 3 Verify their licence number with your state regulator
- 4 Ask for references from recent jobs similar to yours
- 5 Check online reviews and ratings
- 6 Confirm they have public liability insurance
- 7 Get a written quote, not just a verbal estimate
- 8 Understand what's included and what's extra
- 9 Agree on payment schedule — never pay 100% upfront
- 10 Get a timeline in writing with key milestones
- 11 Confirm who supplies materials
- 12 Take before photos for your records
- 13 Keep all communications and receipts
- 14 Do a final walkthrough before making final payment
- 1 Check council — most decks over 1m high or 10m² need approval
- 2 Choose timber species: hardwood, treated pine, or composite
- 3 Get site measured and footing positions marked
- 4 Arrange engineering plan if deck is elevated or large
- 5 Book decking contractor — compare at least 3 quotes
- 6 Choose decking profile and fixing method (hidden vs face fixed)
- 7 Plan integrated lighting and power points
- 8 Decide on pergola roofing: open, polycarbonate, or insulated panel
- 9 Order materials — allow lead time for hardwoods
- 10 Ensure footings are compliant with your soil type
- 11 Inspect framing and bearer installation before decking
- 12 Apply oil or sealant to all raw timber cuts
- 13 Install balustrades and handrails if required
- 14 Final council inspection if DA/BA approval was required
- 1 Define the scope: ground floor, first floor, or rear extension?
- 2 Engage an architect or building designer for plans
- 3 Get a pre-application meeting with your council
- 4 Submit Development Application (DA) or CDC — allow 6-16 weeks
- 5 Shortlist and tender to 3+ builders using the approved plans
- 6 Review builder's licence, insurance, and references
- 7 Sign a HIA or Master Builders contract — get legal review
- 8 Arrange construction finance if needed
- 9 Demolition and site preparation
- 10 Footing and slab works
- 11 Framing, roofing, and lock-up
- 12 Rough-in: plumbing, electrical, data, insulation
- 13 Plastering, internal fit-out, and painting
- 14 Kitchen, bathroom, and flooring installation
- 15 Final inspections and Occupation Certificate
- 16 Update your home insurance to reflect the improvement
- 1 Choose paint colours — test samples on the wall before committing
- 2 Decide: DIY or hire a painter? Get 3 quotes either way
- 3 Determine paint quality and sheen level (flat, low sheen, semi-gloss)
- 4 Calculate coverage: 1 litre covers ~12-14m² for standard walls
- 5 Purchase enough paint — better to have leftover than run out of a batch
- 6 Move or protect all furniture and cover floors with drop sheets
- 7 Wash walls with sugar soap to remove grease and grime
- 8 Fill all cracks, holes, and nail pops with filler — sand smooth
- 9 Sand any glossy surfaces for paint adhesion
- 10 Apply painter's tape to edges, cornices, and skirtings
- 11 Prime bare patches and new plaster before painting
- 12 Cut in edges first with a brush, then roll large areas
- 13 Allow correct recoat time between coats (typically 2-4 hours)
- 14 Apply 2 coats minimum — 3 for dark or dramatic colour changes
- 15 Remove tape while paint is still slightly tacky for clean edges
- 1 Safety first: do not go on your roof without proper fall protection
- 2 Inspect roof from ground with binoculars — look for cracked/missing tiles
- 3 Check gutters for rust, sagging, blockages, or overflowing
- 4 Look for moss, lichen, or algae growth (sign of moisture retention)
- 5 Inspect flashings around skylights, chimneys, and valleys for rust or gaps
- 6 Check roof from inside ceiling — look for stains, daylight, or moisture
- 7 Get 3 quotes from licensed roofers — specify repair vs full replacement
- 8 Confirm roofer is licensed and insured
- 9 Decide on roofing material: existing tile/colourbond, or upgrade?
- 10 Check if sarking (reflective foil underlay) is present — add if replacing
- 11 Arrange scaffolding or safety equipment as required
- 12 Confirm warranty on new materials and workmanship
- 13 Arrange gutters and downpipes to be cleared and checked at same time
- 14 After work: check ceiling interior during next rain for any leaks
- 1 Calculate room size in m² and ceiling height to size the unit correctly
- 2 Choose system type: split system, ducted, multi-split, or portable
- 3 Consider star ratings — higher star rating = lower running costs
- 4 Identify ideal indoor unit position: high on wall, central, minimal obstruction
- 5 Plan outdoor unit location — shaded, well-ventilated, not south-facing
- 6 Check if electrical switchboard has capacity (dedicated circuit often required)
- 7 Get 3 quotes from licensed HVAC installers
- 8 Confirm installer holds an ARCTick licence (required for refrigerant work)
- 9 Check brand warranty: 5-7 years is standard, some offer 10 years
- 10 Confirm inclusions: copper pipe, electrical work, isolator switch, brackets
- 11 Installation day: ensure clear access and power isolation
- 12 Test unit in both cooling and heating modes after installation
- 13 Register warranty with manufacturer
- 14 Set up smart control app if applicable
- 15 Service the unit annually — clean filters every 3 months
- 1 Measure the laundry space and plan the layout
- 2 Identify plumbing locations — moving washer/dryer connections adds cost
- 3 Choose your tub and tapware
- 4 Select cabinetry: overhead, base, or full laundry unit
- 5 Choose benchtop material — durable and water-resistant
- 6 Select flooring — tile or waterproof vinyl for easy cleaning
- 7 Check ventilation — dryer must vent externally (not into ceiling cavity)
- 8 Plan for broom cupboard and storage for cleaning supplies
- 9 Book plumber for rough-in and final fit-off
- 10 Book electrician for dedicated circuit if needed (large dryers)
- 11 Install waterproofing on floor and wet wall areas
- 12 Tile installation after waterproofing cure
- 13 Cabinet and benchtop installation
- 14 Final plumbing and electrical connections
- 15 Apply silicone to all joints and wet area penetrations
- 1 Check council zoning — converting garages to habitable rooms requires approval in most LGAs
- 2 Check if you need to retain off-street parking under your planning rules
- 3 Engage a building designer for compliant plans (insulation, floor height, ceiling height)
- 4 Lodge Development Application or CDC
- 5 Assess concrete slab — may need moisture membrane and topping slab
- 6 Check floor height above natural ground level (habitable room min 500mm in many states)
- 7 Insulate walls and ceiling to NCC standards
- 8 Install new windows and doors — check natural light and ventilation requirements
- 9 Book electrician for lighting, power outlets, and safety switches
- 10 Book plumber if adding a bathroom or kitchenette
- 11 Install plasterboard and cornice
- 12 Painting and flooring installation
- 13 Install heating/cooling — split system is simplest
- 14 Occupation Certificate before use as habitable space
- 1 Identify what the exterior is made of: brick, render, fibro, weatherboard, or cladding
- 2 Check for asbestos in fibro (pre-1990 homes) before sanding or pressure washing
- 3 Get 3 quotes from licensed painters specifying prep requirements
- 4 Choose exterior-grade paint: Dulux Weathershield, Taubmans All Weather, or equivalent
- 5 Pressure wash entire exterior — allow 2-3 days to dry thoroughly
- 6 Sand, scrape, and fill all cracks, holes, and peeling areas
- 7 Apply timber primer or render sealer as appropriate
- 8 Mask off windows, doors, and fixed elements
- 9 Paint eaves and fascia before walls
- 10 Apply minimum 2 coats — 3 if changing dramatically in colour
- 11 Paint gutters if included in scope
- 12 Touch up any missed areas before scaffolding is removed
- 13 Remove all masking and clean up dropsheets
- 14 Final inspection in daylight for any misses or runs
- 1 Identify age of existing plumbing — galvanised steel pipes have 30-50 year lifespan
- 2 Check water pressure — low pressure may indicate pipe corrosion or undersized supply
- 3 Locate and test your main water shutoff valve — ensure it works
- 4 Check for any slow or blocked drains (kitchen, bathrooms, laundry)
- 5 Inspect all visible pipe connections under sinks and behind toilets for rust or moisture
- 6 Get 3 quotes from licensed plumbers for assessment and upgrade
- 7 Decide: partial re-pipe or full re-pipe? (full costs more upfront but eliminates future issues)
- 8 Confirm new pipes: copper (traditional), CPVC, or PEX (flexible, modern)
- 9 Check and replace any non-compliant flexi hoses (check date — replace if >10 years old)
- 10 Upgrade tapware at same time — labour is already there
- 11 Inspect hot water system age and condition — service or replace
- 12 Check water meter — report to water authority if meter is running without taps on (sign of leak)
- 13 Pressure test new pipework before walls are closed
- 14 Plumber to issue compliance certificate for any licensed work
- 1 Identify the best room and ceiling location — avoid structural rafters if possible
- 2 Confirm roof pitch and type (tile, Colorbond, or metal) — affects product choice
- 3 Choose skylight type: fixed, openable (ventilation), or tubular (for small spaces)
- 4 Consider glazing: clear vs tinted (heat gain considerations for Australian climates)
- 5 Get 3 quotes from skylight specialists — most include installation in quote
- 6 Check if you need council approval (generally not for skylights)
- 7 Have roofer and plasterer coordinated — both work is required
- 8 Prepare interior — move furniture and cover floors
- 9 Roofer installs skylight frame and flashing during dry weather only
- 10 Plasterer forms and plasters the light shaft/reveal
- 11 Paint the light shaft white to maximise light reflection
- 12 Electrician to wire an opening skylight motor (if applicable)
- 13 Test for leaks during next rain before finalising
- 14 Install blinds or UV film if heat gain is a concern
- 1 Choose the right room — natural light, minimal noise, ability to close a door
- 2 Measure the space and plan desk, storage, and equipment layout
- 3 Book electrician for dedicated power circuits and additional outlets
- 4 Install data points (ethernet) — Wi-Fi is unreliable for video calls
- 5 Plan lighting: overhead ambient light plus task lighting on the desk
- 6 Choose an ergonomic desk height (700-730mm standard; adjustable sit-stand is ideal)
- 7 Select an ergonomic chair — invest well here; it affects your health
- 8 Install shelving and storage — vertical storage maximises small spaces
- 9 Soundproof the room if noise is an issue: acoustic panels, weatherstripping
- 10 Plan cable management — avoid trip hazards and visible cable mess
- 11 Ensure heating and cooling reaches the office space
- 12 Install a door with solid core for sound privacy during calls
- 13 Paint in a productivity-positive colour — greens and blues aid focus
- 14 Check if ATO home office deduction applies — document the setup
- 1 Note your current system type, age, and capacity
- 2 Check whether system is gas, electric, heat pump, or solar
- 3 Assess household size and peak hot water demand
- 4 Compare running costs: electric ($700-1000/yr), gas ($300-500/yr), heat pump ($150-300/yr)
- 5 Check available rebates — heat pump and solar attract significant state rebates
- 6 Get 3 quotes specifying same system type for apples-to-apples comparison
- 7 Confirm plumber is licensed and competent in the system type
- 8 For gas: confirm gasfitter has licence for Type A appliances
- 9 For heat pump: confirm installer is CEC-accredited if solar rebates involved
- 10 Arrange safe disposal of old system — most plumbers include this
- 11 New system installed and commissioned
- 12 Test hot water delivery at all outlets
- 13 Set thermostat to 60°C (recommended to prevent Legionella)
- 14 Register warranty with manufacturer and keep documentation
- 1 Measure existing staircase: total rise, total run, width, and headroom clearance
- 2 Choose stair style: straight, L-shaped, U-shaped, or spiral
- 3 Select materials: timber treads, glass balustrade, steel stringers, or combination
- 4 Check compliance: tread depth min 250mm, riser max 190mm under NCC
- 5 Balustrade height: 1000mm from stair nosing (1200mm in commercial)
- 6 Get engineering plan if changing structure, span, or load bearing elements
- 7 Get 3 quotes from staircase specialists or licensed carpenters
- 8 Confirm lead times for custom components — 4-8 weeks is common
- 9 Arrange temporary safe access during installation
- 10 Remove existing staircase carefully — protect walls and flooring
- 11 Install new stringers and structural elements
- 12 Fix treads and risers
- 13 Install balustrade system — ensure no openings exceed 125mm (child safety)
- 14 Sand and finish timber treads
- 15 Final inspection for wobble, squeaks, and compliance
- 1 Book annual termite inspection with a licensed pest inspector
- 2 Inspect sub-floor, garden beds, timber stacks, and fence lines for termite activity
- 3 Check your existing termite management system — when was it last inspected/renewed?
- 4 If live termites found: do NOT disturb the colony — call a licensed pest controller immediately
- 5 Get 3 quotes for treatment — specify same product/method for comparison
- 6 Choose treatment: chemical soil treatment, bait stations, or combination
- 7 Chemical treatment: perimeter and sub-floor soil treated with Termidor or similar
- 8 Bait stations: in-ground stations installed every 3m around perimeter
- 9 Arrange re-inspection schedule — chemical 8 years, bait stations 3-monthly
- 10 Remove all timber-to-soil contact around property
- 11 Fix all leaking taps, gutters, and pipes — moisture attracts termites
- 12 Clear sub-floor ventilation — ensure free airflow under suspended floors
- 13 Keep garden mulch 150mm away from all walls
- 14 Register warranty with pest control company and keep annual inspection records
- 1 Choose your smart home ecosystem: Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, or Samsung SmartThings
- 2 Upgrade your Wi-Fi — mesh system recommended for whole-home coverage
- 3 Start with high-impact basics: smart lights, smart plugs, and a smart thermostat/AC controller
- 4 Install a smart doorbell (Ring, Nest, Unifi) for front-door monitoring
- 5 Add smart locks — ensure they're compliant with Australian Standards AS 4145
- 6 Book electrician to install smart switches (replacing existing light switches)
- 7 Install motion-sensor lights in hallways, bathrooms, and outdoor areas
- 8 Set up automation routines: lights on at sunset, AC on before you arrive home
- 9 Install smart smoke alarms that notify your phone when triggered
- 10 Add security cameras at entry points — check privacy laws for outdoor cameras
- 11 Set up smart irrigation controller to optimise watering based on weather
- 12 Integrate with energy monitoring — smart meter plug-ins show real-time usage
- 13 Test all automations and check for connectivity dead spots
- 14 Create a guest access setup for Wi-Fi and smart lock codes
- 1 Measure the area to be tiled — add 10% for waste, 15% for diagonal patterns
- 2 Choose tile size: large format (600×600 or bigger) for modern look, small (mosaic) for feature areas
- 3 Confirm slip rating: P4 or P5 rating needed for wet floors (shower, pool area)
- 4 Check thickness: floor tiles must be 8-10mm minimum for residential use
- 5 Order grout and adhesive to suit tile size and substrate (check manufacturer spec)
- 6 Get 3 quotes from licensed tilers — confirm they have current licence
- 7 Ensure substrate is flat (3mm in 1.8m), dry, and sound before tiling
- 8 Waterproofing must be complete and certified before tiler starts
- 9 Set out the tile layout — start from centre of room or focal point
- 10 Install adhesive — use correct notch trowel size for tile format
- 11 Back-butter large tiles for full adhesive coverage
- 12 Set tiles with spacers — check level and alignment frequently
- 13 Allow adhesive to cure (typically 24 hours) before grouting
- 14 Apply grout — clean excess before it sets with a damp sponge
- 15 Seal grout lines after 28 days of cure — particularly in wet areas
- 1 Choose a location: minimum 6 hours direct sun per day
- 2 Decide on bed size: 1.2m wide maximum for easy reach from both sides
- 3 Choose bed material: treated pine (H4 minimum), galvanised steel, brick, or hardwood sleepers
- 4 Avoid CCA-treated timber if growing edibles — use ACQ or LOSP treatment
- 5 Plan orientation: beds running east-west maximise sun exposure
- 6 Lay cardboard or newspaper base to suppress weeds before filling
- 7 Fill with quality growing medium: 60% topsoil, 30% compost, 10% coarse sand
- 8 Install drip irrigation before planting if possible
- 9 Mulch beds to retain moisture — sugar cane mulch works well
- 10 Install a mesh or trellis for climbing plants (beans, tomatoes, cucumbers)
- 11 Plan companion planting to deter pests naturally
- 12 Add compost or worm castings to beds each season
- 13 Rotate crop families each season to prevent disease buildup
- 14 Install netting frame to protect from birds and possums
- 1 Check your vehicle's maximum AC charging rate (typically 7.2kW or 11kW)
- 2 Choose charger type: tethered (cable attached) or untethered (use your own cable)
- 3 Confirm your switchboard has capacity — 32A dedicated circuit often needed
- 4 Get 3 quotes from licensed electricians experienced in EV charger installation
- 5 Confirm electrician is licensed and has EV charger install experience
- 6 Choose charger location: garage, carport, or external wall near parking
- 7 Determine cable routing from switchboard to charger location
- 8 Check if switchboard upgrade is needed — older fuse boards may not be suitable
- 9 Electrician installs dedicated circuit, isolator switch, and earth stake
- 10 EV charger unit wall-mounted and connected
- 11 Earthing and surge protection confirmed
- 12 Set up smart charging app if applicable (schedule charging for off-peak tariffs)
- 13 Certificate of Electrical Safety issued
- 14 Notify your energy retailer — some offer EV-specific off-peak tariffs
- 1 Assess the needs: grab rails, roll-in shower, raised toilet, or full accessible bathroom?
- 2 Engage an occupational therapist (OT) for a home assessment — often free via My Aged Care
- 3 Check for government funding: NDIS, Home Modification programs (HACC), or DVA
- 4 Engage a builder experienced in accessible modifications
- 5 Check if building approval is needed for structural changes
- 6 Install grab rails at toilet, shower entry, and bath — use structural backing in walls
- 7 Replace shower over bath with a curbless (step-free) shower
- 8 Choose non-slip tiles (P4/P5 slip rating) for shower floor
- 9 Install a fold-down shower seat
- 10 Replace standard toilet with raised toilet suite or install seat raiser
- 11 Widen doorways if wheelchair or walker access needed (minimum 850mm clear)
- 12 Install lever-style tapware throughout — easier with limited grip strength
- 13 Ensure adequate lighting — reduce fall risk in older adults
- 14 Clear turning circle: 1500mm diameter clear space in shower and at vanity
- 1 Identify where water pools on your property after rain
- 2 Check gutters and downpipes are connected to stormwater — not sewer or spoon drain
- 3 Inspect all downpipes for blockages — run garden hose from top to test
- 4 Check pits and grates for leaf litter and blockages
- 5 Identify if you're in a flood-prone zone — check council flood mapping
- 6 Get 3 quotes from licensed plumbers for drainage improvements
- 7 Consider adding surface drains (channel drains) in low points on paving
- 8 Install a soak pit or dry well for minor overland flow
- 9 Rainwater tank connected to roof downpipes — diverts first-flush
- 10 French drain (agricultural pipe in gravel-filled trench) for sub-surface drainage
- 11 Ensure driveway has correct fall — water away from house
- 12 Check retaining walls for adequate drainage — weep holes and ag drain at base
- 13 Grade garden beds away from house — minimum 50mm fall per metre
- 14 After works: observe stormwater flow during next significant rain event
- 1 Set your budget (cabinetry is ~50% of cost)
- 2 Measure kitchen and draw layout (consider work triangle)
- 3 Decide on layout: galley, L-shape, U-shape, or open plan?
- 4 Choose cabinetry: flat-pack, semi-custom, or custom
- 5 Select benchtop material (laminate, engineered stone, natural stone)
- 6 Choose appliances: oven, cooktop, rangehood, dishwasher, fridge
- 7 Select sink and tapware (consider undermount sink)
- 8 Choose splashback material and design
- 9 Book plumber for rough-in and gas fitting
- 10 Book electrician for outlets, lighting, appliance circuits
- 11 Order cabinetry and appliances (8-12 weeks lead time possible)
- 12 Arrange demolition and removal of old kitchen
- 13 Plastering and patching walls after demolition
- 14 Cabinet installation and benchtop templating
- 15 Benchtop installation (1-2 weeks after template)
- 16 Splashback installation
- 17 Appliance installation and connection
- 18 Final plumbing and electrical fit-off
- 1 8 weeks out: Book removalist and organise packing supplies
- 2 6 weeks out: Declutter — sell, donate, or dispose of unwanted items
- 3 4 weeks out: Notify utilities, insurance, bank, and subscriptions of address change
- 4 3 weeks out: Start packing non-essential items room by room
- 5 2 weeks out: Arrange final clean of current property
- 6 1 week out: Pack essentials bag, disconnect whitegoods, defrost freezer
- 7 Moving day: Final meter reads, key handover, supervise removalists
- 8 Post-move: Check all items arrived, connect utilities at new property
- 1 Define your vision — entertaining space, garden, play area?
- 2 Set your budget and timeline
- 3 Check council regulations — you may need approval for decks, pools, large structures
- 4 Get a site survey if doing major earthworks
- 5 Consider drainage and stormwater management
- 6 Choose materials: timber, composite, concrete, stone
- 7 Plan for lighting, power, and water access outdoors
- 8 Book tradies: landscaper, decking specialist, concretor, plumber, electrician
- 9 Order materials and arrange delivery
- 10 Prepare the site — clear vegetation, level ground
- 11 Build in stages: hardscaping first, then structures, then planting
- 12 Apply finishes — oil decking, seal concrete
- 13 Set up irrigation system before planting
- 14 Add furniture, plants, and decorative elements
- 1 Research pool types: concrete (gunite), fibreglass, or above-ground
- 2 Check council requirements — pool approvals are mandatory
- 3 Have a soil/geotechnical test done before excavation
- 4 Engage a licensed pool builder — check SPASA membership
- 5 Review and sign a detailed contract with inclusions listed
- 6 Confirm pool fencing requirements (min 1.2m in most states)
- 7 Plan access for excavation machinery
- 8 Mark underground services before excavation (Dial Before You Dig)
- 9 Excavation and shell installation
- 10 Plumbing, filtration system, and electrical connections
- 11 Tiling, coping, and pool surrounds
- 12 Pool fencing installation (must meet AS 1926.1)
- 13 Backfill and reinstatement of surrounding area
- 14 Handover, water balance, and equipment commissioning
- 15 Register pool with your local council
- 1 Review your electricity bills — identify average daily usage (kWh)
- 2 Assess roof: age, condition, orientation (north-facing is best in Australia), shading
- 3 Decide on system size — typical Aussie home: 6.6kW to 10kW
- 4 Check if battery storage makes sense for your usage pattern
- 5 Get at least 3 quotes from Clean Energy Council (CEC) accredited installers
- 6 Check installer's CEC accreditation and reviews
- 7 Confirm eligibility for Small-scale Technology Certificates (STCs)
- 8 Check your state's feed-in tariff (FiT) with your retailer
- 9 Review brand and warranty on panels and inverter (25-year panel warranty is standard)
- 10 Confirm your switchboard can handle the system
- 11 Notify your network distributor (installer usually handles this)
- 12 Installation day: ensure adequate roof access and safety measures
- 13 Grid connection and meter upgrade (allow 1-6 weeks after install)
- 14 Monitor your system via app for the first 30 days
- 15 Check the Small-scale Renewable Energy Scheme (SRES) rebate applied correctly
- 1 Measure your floor area accurately — add 10% for wastage/cuts
- 2 Choose flooring type: timber, laminate, hybrid (SPC), tile, carpet, or vinyl
- 3 Check subfloor condition — must be flat (within 3mm over 1.8m), dry, and sound
- 4 Identify if you're floating, gluing, or nailing down
- 5 Get moisture test for subfloor before installation (especially concrete slabs)
- 6 Underlay choice: acoustic, thermal, or moisture barrier — check product specs
- 7 Order flooring and acclimatise timber/laminate in the room for 48-72 hours
- 8 Remove existing floor covering and dispose responsibly
- 9 Grind or self-level concrete if required
- 10 Install flooring according to manufacturer's method
- 11 Install scotia/beading to cover expansion gaps
- 12 Refit skirtings or door frames as needed
- 13 Replace toilet suite, vanities, or kitchen kickboards if affected
- 14 Final clean — vacuum then damp mop (avoid excess water on timber)
- 1 Check your council's fence height limits and setback rules
- 2 Review your property boundary — get a survey if unsure
- 3 Talk to neighbours — a dividing fence cost is typically shared 50/50
- 4 Agree on fence type and style with neighbours (required for dividing fences)
- 5 Choose material: colorbond, timber, aluminium, brick, or pool fencing
- 6 Get at least 3 quotes from licensed fencing contractors
- 7 Check contractor's licence (required in most states for fencing work)
- 8 Remove existing old fence and dispose of materials
- 9 Check for underground services before post holes (Dial Before You Dig: 1100)
- 10 Post holes to be dug and set in concrete — allow to cure 24-48 hours
- 11 Install rails and infill panels
- 12 Check fence alignment and plumb before finishing
- 13 Arrange gate hardware and locks
- 14 Apply sealer or paint to timber fences for longevity
- 1 Check your state's SEPP or local zoning allows a secondary dwelling on your lot
- 2 Confirm minimum lot size requirements (in NSW: 450m² under SEPP)
- 3 Measure available site area — account for setbacks, landscaping, and parking
- 4 Decide: detached, attached, or internal conversion?
- 5 Engage a building designer for a compliant floor plan
- 6 Lodge CDC or DA — CDC is faster if design complies with standards
- 7 Confirm separate utility metering if tenanting independently
- 8 Book licensed builder — check recent granny flat experience
- 9 Order materials and confirm lead times for windows/doors
- 10 Slab, frame, and lock-up stages with certifier inspections
- 11 Rough-in: plumbing, electrical, data, gas (if applicable)
- 12 Internal fit-out: kitchen, bathroom, laundry
- 13 Painting, flooring, and final fixtures
- 14 Occupation Certificate from certifier before occupation
- 15 Register with your local council for land tax purposes if renting
- 16 Arrange landlord insurance before listing
- 1 Check if space allows — minimum usable ensuite is ~3m²
- 2 Identify location of existing plumbing to minimise new rough-in costs
- 3 Confirm if structural walls need removing — engage engineer if so
- 4 Determine if council approval is needed (usually not for internal work)
- 5 Choose compact fixtures: wall-hung toilet, corner shower, small vanity
- 6 Select tiles to coordinate with bedroom aesthetic
- 7 Book builder to create the opening and frame the new wet room
- 8 Book plumber for rough-in — extend existing supply and waste lines
- 9 Book electrician for lighting, exhaust fan, and safety switch
- 10 Waterproofing by licensed waterproofer
- 11 Tiling, vanity, shower screen installation
- 12 Plumbing and electrical fit-off
- 13 Install door and handle — solid-core for privacy
- 14 Silicone all joints; final check for leaks
- 1 Assess current insulation — check ceiling via roof hatch, walls via power point inspection
- 2 Get a home energy assessment (free or subsidised in many states)
- 3 Choose insulation type: bulk (batts), reflective (foil), or spray foam
- 4 Determine R-value needed for your climate zone (R4.0–R6.0 for ceilings in most of Australia)
- 5 Get 3 quotes from insulation installers
- 6 Confirm installation includes safety switches if working near electrical wiring
- 7 Clear the roof cavity of any stored items before insulation team arrives
- 8 Book electrician to check and upgrade any older wiring exposed during install
- 9 Ceiling insulation installed — confirm coverage depth and no gaps
- 10 Wall insulation (if doing) — check blown-in or batt injection method
- 11 Seal all ceiling penetrations — downlights, cornices, exhaust fans — before insulating
- 12 Check for rebates: most states offer subsidised insulation programs
- 13 Review energy bills 3 months after install to measure improvement
- 1 Measure each window opening accurately (width × height) — note reveal depth
- 2 Choose window type: single/double hung, awning, casement, or fixed
- 3 Choose material: aluminium (budget), uPVC (thermal), or timber (premium)
- 4 Decide on glazing: single, double, or double with low-E coating for energy performance
- 5 Consider security: key-lockable windows, security mesh, or laminated glass
- 6 Get 3 quotes — include supply and installation
- 7 Check if heritage approval is needed (heritage-listed properties)
- 8 Confirm lead time — custom-size windows can take 4-8 weeks
- 9 Schedule installation around weather — avoid rain weeks
- 10 Remove existing windows carefully — check for asbestos in sill putty (pre-1990)
- 11 Check and treat timber frames if rotted or compromised
- 12 Install windows, flash, and seal to prevent water ingress
- 13 Paint or seal reveals to match wall finish
- 14 Check all opening mechanisms and locks work correctly
- 1 Have a licensed electrician audit your switchboard and wiring
- 2 Confirm safety switches (RCDs) are present on all power and lighting circuits
- 3 Test all safety switches — press the test button; it must trip within 30ms
- 4 Check circuit breakers — if any are the old ceramic fuse type, upgrade switchboard
- 5 Identify if you have aluminium wiring (common 1960-1980) — requires specialist review
- 6 Plan for EV charger circuit if you have or plan to buy an electric vehicle
- 7 Add additional power circuits if kitchen or laundry are undersized
- 8 Install USB power outlets in bedrooms and living areas for convenience
- 9 Plan smart home wiring: data points, doorbell, security system, home automation
- 10 Upgrade to LED lighting throughout if not already done
- 11 Install outdoor power points and lights if not present
- 12 Get all work done by a licensed electrician — electrical work is not DIY
- 13 Receive Certificate of Electrical Safety for all new work
- 14 Notify insurer of any significant electrical upgrades
- 1 Engage a structural engineer to assess existing footings, slab, and walls
- 2 Commission architect/building designer for plans and structural drawings
- 3 Check zoning — height limits, boundary setbacks, and shadow diagrams
- 4 Lodge Development Application (DA) — CDC rarely available for second storey
- 5 Allow 8-20 weeks for DA approval depending on your LGA
- 6 Tender to 3+ licensed builders with experience in second-storey additions
- 7 Arrange temporary accommodation — home is usually unliveable during roof removal
- 8 Demolish roof structure — works must be done in weather window
- 9 Install structural steel or LVL beams as per engineer's design
- 10 Frame new first floor walls and install new roof
- 11 Rough-in: plumbing, electrical, data, aircon for new floor
- 12 Insulation and plasterboard throughout new floor
- 13 Internal fit-out: bathrooms, bedrooms, doors, cornices
- 14 Staircase installation — connection between floors
- 15 Painting and flooring — new floor and any repaired areas below
- 16 Occupation Certificate before use
- 1 Measure your driveway area accurately
- 2 Choose material: exposed aggregate, plain concrete, asphalt, pavers, or gravel
- 3 Check if council crossover permit is required (where driveway meets footpath)
- 4 Get 3 quotes from licensed concretors or pavers
- 5 Arrange removal and disposal of existing driveway
- 6 Check and repair any subsurface drainage issues before laying new driveway
- 7 Prepare subbase — compact properly to prevent settling
- 8 Mark out the shape and any curved edges
- 9 Install formwork (timber edging) before pouring concrete
- 10 Concrete poured and textured to chosen finish
- 11 Allow concrete to cure — minimum 7 days before driving on it
- 12 Apply sealer to exposed aggregate or coloured concrete within 28 days
- 13 Install edging if using pavers to prevent spreading
- 14 Check crossover and gutter — ensure water drains away from home
- 1 Check council rules: most sheds under 10m² don't need approval but setbacks apply
- 2 Measure available space — account for council setback requirements from boundaries
- 3 Choose shed type: pre-fab steel kit, Colorbond, timber, or custom-built
- 4 Decide on base: concrete slab, galvanised bearers, or ground-screws
- 5 Get council approval if shed exceeds size thresholds or has sleeping/living use
- 6 Order shed — allow 2-4 weeks lead time for manufactured sheds
- 7 Book concretor for slab (most sheds require a concrete base)
- 8 Mark out and excavate for slab; install edge formwork
- 9 Pour and cure concrete slab — 7 days before erecting structure
- 10 Erect shed frame and walls according to manufacturer's instructions
- 11 Install roofing and gutters
- 12 Book electrician if running power to the shed
- 13 Install shelving, workbench, or racking to suit intended use
- 14 Secure shed with padlock hasps or lock set
- 1 Identify all areas needing repair: holes, cracks, water damage, or sag
- 2 Determine cause of damage before repairing — fix leaks or structural issues first
- 3 For water-damaged plaster: check for mould and treat before replastering
- 4 Get 3 quotes from licensed plasterers for major repairs
- 5 Small holes (under 50mm): use self-adhesive mesh patch and jointing compound
- 6 Large holes: cut out to nearest stud and install new plasterboard section
- 7 Tape all joins with paper jointing tape and compound — apply 3 coats
- 8 Sand between each compound coat — do not rush
- 9 Prime all repaired surfaces before painting
- 10 Repaint repaired area — blend into surrounding ceiling/wall
- 11 For ceilings: check for plasterboard screws backing out — re-drive and compound
- 12 Cornices: re-glue lifting sections with cornice cement
- 13 Check repairs in raking light (angled flashlight) for any remaining imperfections
- 14 Apply second coat of paint if colour match isn't achieved in first coat
- 1 Measure room area accurately — carpet is priced per m², add 10% for waste
- 2 Choose carpet style: loop pile (durable), cut pile (soft), or combination
- 3 Choose fibre: nylon (most durable), wool (premium), polyester (budget), or blend
- 4 Consider stain treatment — good option for households with children or pets
- 5 Select underlay: PU foam for comfort, rubber for durability, or combination
- 6 Get 3 quotes from carpet retailers including supply and installation
- 7 Confirm installation includes: lifting existing carpet, disposal, gripper installation
- 8 Clear the room completely before installation day
- 9 Check subfloor: concrete must be dry, timber must be solid with no squeaks
- 10 Installer fits gripper strips around perimeter
- 11 Underlay cut and laid throughout room
- 12 Carpet laid, stretched, and tucked under gripper
- 13 Doorways fitted with bar/binder to transition to other flooring
- 14 Inspect for any lumps, joins, or tracking before installer leaves
- 1 Confirm waterproofer is licensed in your state
- 2 Check shower walls are cement board or compressed fibre cement (not standard plasterboard)
- 3 Check substrate is clean, dry, free of dust, grease, and loose material
- 4 Confirm product is AS/NZS 4858 compliant membrane
- 5 Flood-coat floor with liquid membrane — 2 coats, 90° to each other
- 6 Apply membrane to walls: minimum 1800mm height from floor in shower
- 7 Extend floor membrane minimum 50mm up the wall under wall membrane
- 8 Embed fibreglass bandage in internal corners before membrane coats
- 9 Waterproof around drain — use pre-formed drain flange where possible
- 10 Apply minimum 1mm dry film thickness — check with wet film thickness gauge
- 11 Allow full cure time between coats (check product data sheet — typically 2-4 hours)
- 12 Allow full cure before tiling — minimum 24 hours, ideally 48 hours
- 13 Conduct flood test: plug drain and fill shower to 25mm — leave 24 hours
- 14 Obtain waterproofing compliance certificate before tiling
- 1 Commission a structural engineer to assess balcony structural integrity
- 2 Identify source of any leaks — typically failed waterproofing or cracked tiles
- 3 Check balustrade height: must be 1m from floor level (residential) or 1.2m (commercial)
- 4 Check balustrade climbability — no horizontal rails if above ground level
- 5 Identify all materials: concrete, steel, timber, or lightweight frame
- 6 Get 3 quotes from restoration specialists or licensed builders
- 7 Remove all existing tiles, membrane, and failed coatings
- 8 Repair any concrete spalling or corrosion of reinforcing steel
- 9 Treat steel elements for rust and coat with corrosion inhibitor
- 10 Apply new waterproofing membrane — AS/NZS 4654 for external wet areas
- 11 Lay new tiles or reconstituted stone with correct drainage fall
- 12 Inspect and replace any corroded balustrade posts, rails, or fixings
- 13 Check and reseal all penetrations (drains, post fixings)
- 14 Final engineer sign-off if structural work was done
- 1 Identify mould type and extent — surface mould vs embedded/structural mould
- 2 Find and fix the source of moisture first — leak, condensation, or rising damp
- 3 Check gutters and downpipes for blockage causing water ingress
- 4 Check sub-floor ventilation if you have a suspended floor
- 5 Minor surface mould: clean with diluted bleach (1:10) and ventilate thoroughly
- 6 For large areas (>1m²) or black mould: engage a licensed mould remediator
- 7 Remove and replace any plasterboard that has mould penetrating the core
- 8 Treat underlying timber framing with anti-fungal treatment if affected
- 9 Increase ventilation: add exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens
- 10 Use a dehumidifier in rooms with persistent condensation
- 11 Insulate cold walls and pipes to reduce condensation surfaces
- 12 Check and repair all flashings, sills, and waterproofing around windows
- 13 Apply anti-mould paint in high-humidity areas
- 14 Monitor repaired areas for 3 months to ensure mould does not return
- 1 Check if your property is heritage-listed, in a conservation area, or under a covenant
- 2 Obtain and read the heritage listing — it specifies what can and cannot be changed
- 3 Engage a heritage consultant or architect with heritage experience
- 4 Contact your council's heritage officer before any design work — get informal guidance
- 5 Submit a Statement of Heritage Impact with your DA
- 6 Understand permitted vs. prohibited works — external changes are most regulated
- 7 Retain original materials where possible: windows, doors, floorboards, pressed metal ceilings
- 8 Match replacement materials closely — period-appropriate profile, colour, and finish
- 9 Use lime mortar (not Portland cement) for repointing heritage brickwork
- 10 Source period-appropriate fixtures: pressed metal, sash windows, VJ wall linings
- 11 Upgrade services (electrical, plumbing, insulation) sensitively — avoid large penetrations in original fabric
- 12 Document all work with photography — often required in heritage approvals
- 13 Retain original details revealed during renovation (hearths, cornices, skirtings)
- 14 Schedule heritage council inspection as required by approval conditions
- 1 Test water chemistry 2-3 times per week in summer, weekly in winter
- 2 Maintain free chlorine: 1-3 ppm (parts per million)
- 3 Maintain pH: 7.2-7.6 (out of range reduces chlorine effectiveness)
- 4 Maintain alkalinity: 80-120 ppm as a buffer for pH stability
- 5 Maintain cyanuric acid (stabiliser): 30-50 ppm for outdoor pools
- 6 Shock (superchlorinate) the pool weekly in summer
- 7 Skim leaves and debris from surface daily in autumn
- 8 Vacuum pool floor weekly — use automatic cleaner or manual pole vacuum
- 9 Brush walls and steps weekly to prevent algae buildup
- 10 Backwash sand or DE filter when pressure gauge reads 7-10 psi above clean pressure
- 11 Clean cartridge filter every 4-6 weeks
- 12 Inspect pump, filter, and chlorinator monthly for leaks or abnormal sounds
- 13 Check pool fencing self-closing gate mechanism monthly — legal requirement
- 14 Winterise pool if temperatures drop consistently below 15°C
- 1 Inspect all door and window seals — replace any cracked or missing weatherstripping
- 2 Install door sweeps on all external doors — gaps under doors are major entry points
- 3 Check flyscreen condition on all windows and doors — replace any damaged screens
- 4 Seal around all pipe penetrations into walls with foam or silicone
- 5 Seal gaps around electrical outlets and light switches on external walls
- 6 Check roof cavity for gaps around eaves, fascia, and brickwork — entry point for possums and rats
- 7 Install mesh over sub-floor vents if openings allow rodent entry
- 8 Remove or seal any standing water sources (pot plant saucers, bird baths) to prevent mosquitoes
- 9 Keep bin lids closed and bins away from house walls
- 10 Trim trees and shrubs back from roof line — rodent and possum access highways
- 11 Book licensed pest controller for annual spider and cockroach treatment
- 12 Install possum-proof protection around fruit trees if possums are an issue
- 13 Check for gap behind rangehood — cockroaches love warm, greasy spaces
- 14 Store dry food in sealed containers — reduces pantry moth and cockroach attraction
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